Behind the church of San Lorenzo, in the heart of an untouristy, rather ‘modern for Italy’ town, are two sweet, chic apartments (one atop the other) in a pretty flower-bedecked courtyard complex. The studio downstairs, with a charming table and chairs outside its entrance, has a wonderful barrel vaulted ceiling and a huge stone fireplace, while muted colours and bare stone walls are enlivened by ‘fiaschi’ bottles spotlit in alcoves. The upstairs apartment comes with its own terrace – just about big enough to dine out on and bliss for a sundowner! Again, it is all very stylishly kitted out and, while there is room for a sofabed upstairs, couples would be happiest here on their own. Immensely helpful owners Kathy and Ray live next door, love the area and are on hand if required with ideas on where to eat, shop and discover. Gallipoli on the Ionian coast is the place to go for nightlife and great beaches while the towns on the Adriatic to the east have a ‘Greek’ look – dazzling white against intense blue skies. This is a very cosy, very friendly place from which to explore it all.