Grapes droop lazily over the terrace, peach and plum trees melt into Apulian countryside, the pool invites a cool dip… this is a glorious Italian getaway, with friendly owners next door to make you feel in famiglia. Be greeted at this 19th-century trullo – its chunky walls topped by five conical roofs like magicians’ hats – by an aperitif in the beautiful wine cellar, or try delicious local cheeses and meats with wines from Puglia. Inside is doll’s house-pretty, a warren of softly lit white walls, local tiles and low arches. Find a log fire, a stencilled dresser, a wooden dining table, a compact kitchen. Quirky antiques – candlesticks, ceramics – peek from nooks and crannies. Duck into two plain bedrooms, with little windows, pictures, a tiny shared shower room. It’s cosy, yes, but much of the time you’re outside. A lazy barbecue on the terrace, a snooze by the shady cedar, a splash in the shallow pool… why not ask Michele and Mimma to cook breakfast or dinner, or fire up the pizza oven? They know the best local markets, the best eateries in Cisternino town, and the best spots on the Adriatic coast – a short drive.