So many ravishing things! An old, white house clear-cut against a blue sky, mysterious gardens, the scent of jasmine – and private beaches five kilometres away. Armando and Rosalba spent a year restoring this 17th-century house (built over a sixth-century oil press) after abandoning city life. Inside – sheer delight. A series of beautiful rooms, ranging from fairytale (a froth of lace and toile) to endearingly simple (madras bedcovers and old desks) to formal (antique armoires and doughty gilt frames)… a gloriously eclectic mix. Dinner is equally marvellous – put your name down. Rosalba specialises in Puglian dishes accompanied by good local wines; Armando rings the courtyard bell at 8.30pm: the feast begins, either in the arched dining room or outside in the candlelit courtyard. It will linger in your memory – as will other details: an exterior white stone stairway climbing to a bedroom, an arched doorway swathed in wisteria. Armando is deeply passionate about his totally organic masseria, surrounded by olive groves and with a view of the sea; Silvana is on hand ensuring you bask in comfort.