Locals flock to the restaurant at Abate Masseria, where they know they’ll be treated to some of the finest antipasti around. How satisfying then that you can dine on local ingredients (expertly matched with Puglian wines from the cellar) and then retire to elegant rooms in the domed 17th-century trulli or converted stables. Mino and his family restored the buildings 15 years ago, keeping the sense of history and adding new bathrooms, dark wooden furniture and deeply comfortable beds. There’s not much to choose between them, you’ll be assured of a good night’s sleep in all. The finest details are found elsewhere – the quietly grand dining room, the mosaic’d pool and the fabulous grounds full of walnut and fig trees, wisteria and jasmine, all surrounded by acres of olive groves. You can breakfast outside then retreat to the guests’ private garden for a siesta. The staff are efficient and Mino and his wife are on hand to make each day feel like a new discovery. There’s stacks to do: the caves of Grotte di Castellana are nearby and in summer you have concerts galore.