A short drive down a country lane, the 17th-century farmhouse is set into its hill with superb views over gentle hills patchworked with wheat fields and vineyards – leading the eye to snowy peaks beyond. This is the best wine-producing area of Italy, and opposite the lane is a dairy where you can stock up on the sheep’s cheese – soft, mild, delicious – Murazzano. Discreetly distant from the main house, down a steep unpaved track – watch your wheels! – is a four-square, two-storey stone structure, once a goats’ shed. Il Nido (the nest) is a delicious bolthole for two. Owner Paolo is a master at putting salvaged finds to unusual use with charming results, so expect pale new stone floors and chunky old rafters, a delicate wooden fretwork door, a stylish steel table and chairs, a charming kitchen tucked under a chunky white stone stair, a bedroom with a big cream bed and small blue shutters, driftwood and pebbles prettifying quiet corners. Outside is smart wooden furniture from which to gaze on the views and a huge linen parasol. Contemporary rusticity, ancient peace.