In the middle of an utterly charming, tightly-packed medieval town sits this cosy, tightly-packed B&B. The 19th-century building is more vertical than horizontal with lots of stairs, compact spaces and a warren-like layout, each room on its own floor. Wonderfully quaint. The style is inimitably Italian – just the right amount of bold paint and gilt, just the right mix of antique and modern, rustic Fermo and colourful contemporary. It is all recently renovated with a pleasing balance of materials: leather and solid wood in bedrooms and living room, brick, tile and porcelain in bathrooms. The big beds have orthopaedic mattresses, the modern showers are spacious. After showing you in, delightful, energetic Manuele will tell you about his wine tour out into the countryside to visit several winegrowers. In the morning enjoy a healthy continental breakfast which includes choices of fresh fruit, gluten-free bread and rice or soy milk. As well as wineries, Fermo is ideal for all sorts of sea, mountain and country pursuits and the Marche region is rich in artistic treasures. Excellent value.