Spend a few days at this tranquil agriturismo and you may never want to leave. The hillside farm, built in the late 18th century as a refuge for monks, has been lovingly restored by its English owner Jimmy and original features have survived. No clutter, no fuss, just tiled floors, white walls, dark furniture. The bar and sitting areas have masses of space, bedrooms are simple and some are small, but all are immaculately clean and have central heating and double glazed windows for chillier evenings. If you want a view – of olive groves, vineyards and perched villages – ask for rooms 1 or 2. Do visit the ‘cantina’ and stock up with Durano bounty: olives, preserved apricots and beetroot, wines from Le Marche and homemade passata – an Italian summer in a bottle. There’s plenty to do further afield after your omelette breakfast: the area has lots of tiny medieval villages with interesting churches and works of art, you’re 40 minutes from the cooling sea and a picnic lunch, or lake swimming in the National Park. In spring and summer, walk from the house through wild flowers up to the village of Smerillo.