The perfect place to unwind after Rome. Maria Cristina and Roberto have turned The House of the Snail – a 15th-century farmstead in the Tiber valley – into an entrancing small hotel. Enter and be seduced – by polished floors, mellow furniture, the smell of beeswax. Gardens with flowering shrubs, peaceful paths and a pool set into the lawns are surrounded by 25 hectares of olive groves, orchards and woods. There are pale walls and terracotta floors, family antiques and elegant modern pieces, and good things your hosts have collected on their travels. They’re a lovely young couple, kind, generous, professional, proud of what they have created. A fine staircase sweeps up to the bedrooms, airy, elegant and inviting with harmonious colours (taupes, whites, creams), decorative beds, polished floors, TVs and mini fridges. In the annexe is a suite opening to the garden, and an apartment sleeping four (or six) with a terrace. Roberto’s food is seasonal and delicious – cured meats, homemade pasta, vegetables from the garden – and the spa (hammam, sauna, jacuzzi) is sprinkled with candles.