All arteries, it seems, big and small, lead to the Piazza Navona, the splendid, most animated heart of Rome. The surrounding area is characterised by a mix of artisan’s workshops, fun boutiques, cafés, trattorias and bars, and the magnificent Pantheon. Off the busy Corso Vittorio Emanuele, up on the second floor of a salmon-hued, 18th-century palazzo (with a central lift), is the noble Marcello family’s apartment and, sectioned off it, an independent suite with its own front door. Enter an elegant and compact sitting room with high ceilings to find a sofa for two, fine art on the walls, DVDs, music, TV, bookshelves of city guides, and double-glazed windows that block out all city noise. Hang out in the bustling local bars with summer seating under the trees – the gracious Mrs Olivella is just next door, to help you book tables and taxis. Visit the hotspots of Rome, lose yourself in the city’s intriguing labyrinth of streets, then return to exquisite monogrammed sheets on a decorative brass bed, and a 15th-century Madonna above your head.