A fascinating little B&B in the peaceful old Jewish quarter of Trastevere. The house has been in Marco’s family for 200 years – he and his wife Gianna are warmly sociable and look after you beautifully. They’re much travelled too and have filled the family home with bits and pieces from their journeys. Floor to ceiling shelves heave under the weight of books in the red drawing room, gorgeous pieces of art and sculpture beautify walls and tables, and floors are laid with exquisite parquet; there’s plenty of dark wood and every square inch gleams. The convivial oval dining table awaits guests eager to sample Gianna’s lavish breakfasts with homemade jams and lots of chatter. Bedrooms, reached through a guest sitting room, have bold flowers – pinks, reds, yellows – or pinstripes on the walls, a backdrop to handsome bedsteads and great little bathrooms, while the best have miniature staircases up to private terraces with views that roll down over the terracotta patchwork of Trastevere’s tiny roofs and fascinating web of streets.