Wend your way through Trastevere’s buzzing streets, past old palazzi to a quiet alley leading to the Aurelian walls of Rome. Just before the ancient stone, spy a more modern – 15th-century! – rose-clad building. Fold back the wooden doors with a whoosh to the 21st century: a swooping space of white and glass, lofty beams and brick. All is light and city-chic, from sisal mats on shiny floors to modern lights illuminating violet sofabeds and Marta’s abstract photos. Behind thick glass, a pristine kitchen. Bedrooms contrast bright white walls with streaks of brick; peep out over pretty window boxes to a convent. The all-white bathroom are just as modern, with a rectangular sink, mosaic shower and glinting spotlights. Trastevere hums with life: organic food shops, trendy boutiques, bars and restaurants – but its shady squares are far from touristy and you may find yourself chatting with locals over an aperitivo. Peek into the (very) old church of Santa Maria, or that of Cecilia, patron saint of musicians. Warm, cultured Marta will tell you of local events. The Vatican is a 20-minute walk – and then there’s all of Rome.