When in Rome, be Roman. Rent this fine big flat in authentic, charming Trastevere and live real Roman life for a while. You will be beautifully welcomed by Elisa, whose family home this was for thirty years; it feels well loved. There are family antiques alongside comfortable modern sofas, old mirrors and recent art, lots of light and typical ceramic face vases from Sicily, the family’s birthplace. Elisa and her husband may offer a pasta-making lesson in the new kitchen, all gleaming fittings and worktops. Two designer bathrooms beckon when you return with full heart and weary feet after a day exploring the infinite riches of Rome; good, uncluttered bedrooms welcome you at the end of the evening. Your neighbourhood has treasures of its own within walking distance: Rome’s oldest church, Santa Maria in Trastevere with its fabulous medieval mosaics; Rome’s oldest bridge, Ponte Fabricio, built in 62BC over the Tiber to the Isola Tiberina, now floodlit at night; the beautiful, under-manicured Botanical Gardens where plants have been grown since the 13th century; and, on Sunday mornings, the city’s biggest fleamarket.