A fresh arty vibe sweeps through Flaminio, tucked in a fold of the Tiber as it meanders north of Rome. Steps from the concerts and contemporary art of Auditorium Parco della Musica and MAXXI, Cristiana’s apartment exudes an unruffled peace. Hugging a rosy-stone courtyard of mosaics and magnolia, the apartment has a cool, contemporary air with parquet floors and big ceiling fans. There’s just one bedroom, simple yet pristine with colourful fabrics and wood, and a kettle so you can brew yourself a cuppa. Find white walls, prints of pretty herbs and ancient Rome on the walls – reflecting Cristiana’s profession as a herbalist. So expect unusual teas at breakfast, along with delicious organic breakfasts – perhaps fried eggs and bacon with pancetta, and proper Italian coffee made with mocha. Pizzerias and bars buzz around Ponte Milvio, whose ancient stones are worn down by love padlocks. There are trams to Trastevere, buses to the Vatican, and a flea market to browse on Sundays. For anything else, Cristiana and Angela act as your personal concierges.