It’s worth coming for Itri alone, a wonderful non-touristy little town, tucked into mountains a short drive from the sea. To stay in the old quarter, high up by the castle, is the greatest treat; the views stretch to Ischia on a fine day. Your host Pasquale, courteous and charming, speaks English but is not fluent: here is your chance to practice Italian. Akasamia is a superb restoration – a couple of floors, a terrace shared with next door – of an old house distinguished by stunning sloping wood ceilings and mellow stone walls. Bedrooms are classically furnished, not large but cosy (one under the rafters), with elegantly dressed beds and shining parquet, antique trinkets on dressers and tables, and a soothing blue and cream palette. Bathrooms ooze towels and aim to please so pamper yourself silly! After a day riding horses, visiting olive mills, tasting wines and exploring ruins, how nice to return to a big cosy sofa and a cheering winter fire. You wake to breakfast served on white china: fresh figs, homemade cakes, jams, great coffee, conjured up by perfectionist Pasquale.