What a setting, on a cobbled, traffic-free street in the medieval heart of Castelvetro. It’s fabulous, and so are the Rossi brothers, who established the hotel and restaurant more than a decade ago. Six suites, themed to match their flowery names – Girasole, Margherita and more – have terracotta floor tiles, beams, antique furniture and views over historic rooftops or the basilica. Bathrooms are traditional and functional rather than up-to-the-minute. Andrea is the most courteous host and a knowledgeable sommelier, while Roberto brings his passion for cooking to the cellar restaurant, where breakfast includes homemade pastries and cakes as well as savoury dishes. If you opt for lunch or dinner, the focus is on fresh regional ingredients and recipes, sprinkled with inspiration from the brothers’ grandmother. Book Roberto for a cooking course, or Andrea to arrange a tasting of the area’s wines and salsiccia, a local sausage. Allow time for nearby festivals and sampling the best Lambrusco wines, walks through vineyards, horse riding or biking in the hills. Modena, Bologna and the Ferrari Museum are all within reach.