Cool – in both senses of the word. Metre-thick walls give the whole place that delicious damp-ancient smell, a constant reminder that you are staying in a 14th-century monastery. Architect Lea, and Massimo, lovely people, have revived the ruin after 100 years of abandonment; its topsy-turvy layout is intriguing, the kind of place that cries out to be explored the moment you duck under the archway. Gorgeous bedrooms have exposed brickwork, terracotta floors, balconies and super beds with curly-whirly headboards – and heaps of individual touches: dividing the bedrooms of one suite is the ‘window’ of a confessional unearthed during the restoration. The terraces, the numerous steps and the blue views will leave you giddy; sink into a cushioned wicker sofa and toast the beauty with a lovely glass of the local greco. This is a place that won’t play on your eco conscience either; they’ve won awards for their green efforts. Potter around exquisite, car-free Pisciotta, scramble down through the olive groves to the harbour, visit the famous grottos. New to us, but a favourite already.