Naples is a world of its own: fascinating, chaotic, contradictory. To get the most out of a stay, especially if you’ve never been before, this is the perfect place to start. Not only is the flat immaculate and centrally positioned, it is run by Guido, Gabriella and Gianfranco: a more delightful B&B team would be hard to imagine. Step in and take the quaint elevator to the palazzo’s fourth floor to enter a gleaming wide hallway. There are six bedrooms in all – spare, clean, full of light and quietly luxurious. You have super-memory mattresses, crisply ironed linen, walk-in showers, luggage racks, mini bars, TVs, and the odd family antique to add character. The largest room is ‘That’s Amore’, with an extra sofabed and a balcony over the beginning of the Spanish quarter. Our favourite is ‘Tarentella’, in warm reds and greys; it too has a balcony. Then there’s breakfast, served at the dining table, an Italian delight of coffee, tea, Neapolitan pastries and delicious homemade jams. As for your hosts, make the most of their knowledge; they know their city inside out – every fascinating corner.