Gianludovico and his British wife Camilla bought this uninhabited, ancient palazzo 25 years ago and have gradually brought it back to life. Camilla is a passionate painter and sculptor – her workshop and gallery are also here – so there’s an artists’ atelier available for guest use. You enter from the street into a courtyard with stairs up to the first floor and the Gallery, a luminous corner bedroom with plum coloured walls, plenty of paintings, antique tiled floors, a canopy bed and views to the sea. Up more stairs to another large bedroom with an Indian four-poster, honeycomb tiled floors, antique armoires and oriental carpets. On the top floor (this place is not for the less than nimble) is the terrace bedroom in yellow hues with its own terrace and the best views over the city to the sea. The dining room has a Moroccan feel with warm red-orange walls: here you breakfast on bocconotti biscuits, locally-made cakes, fresh ricotta, hams and sardines. There’s much to see and explore in this un-touristy region and very many beaches with clear water for swimming.