Prepare to leave this century, detach from material cares, and join Lucy on the ‘hill of the fairy fort’ (Crocnaraw means just that). Both place and owner have an untroubled, almost ethereal quality so you may sit talking to Lucy for hours in the comforting Aga country kitchen. She took over her mother’s Georgian country-house B&B in 1985 and has stamped her own character on it without changing much: bedrooms are old-fashioned and homely; bathrooms are pure 60s in ointment pink or baby blue, jazzed up with a bright red seat or some scented treats. There are lovely antiques before the log fire in the big airy drawing room, a unique bamboo wardrobe made by a local craftsman and black and white painted hall tiles. Take your time, ask Lucy to walk you round the garden and explain its history and development. It was planted by her mother in 1960, Lucy looks after it now, and decorates the house with beautifully arranged fresh flowers. She also cares for special donkeys in a field next door, who are very friendly. Here in the heart of Connemara the magic of Ireland is alive and well.