If you like the idea of idling with an evening drink by the slow green water, watching out for the odd fish, looking forward to an exceptionally good dinner, this is the place for you. Not grand, not the Loire – the Loir is a sweet, lovely and unsung river – but we can hear you saying: “Oh, what a pretty spot”. Valérie and Thierry, who have been here for almost two decades, are young, very friendly, though a touch shy, and full of enthusiasm for their auberge. The lively little restaurant, which seats about 50 people in two rooms, and the riverside terrace heavy with roses and sweet-smelling climbers, are the star turns here, though Valérie is also justly proud of the effort she has put into the bedrooms and the way everything sparkles. Rooms are not large but done up in fresh colours with white bedcovers. Those at the back overlook the courtyard, those at the front face the Loir, double glazing separates you from the small road that runs past and peace reigns at night. This is a quiet, very French place to stay, within easy reach of the châteaux. All round superb value – and plenty of choice for vegetarians.