Terraced houses in front, a perfect little farmyard behind, the most welcoming of hosts within – sweet Agnès greets you with impeccable manners and old-fashioned hospitality – she’s delighted to sit and chat in her homely kitchen about where you’ve been. Your home town is marked with a pin on her map of Great Britain alongside all her other treasured guests from across the Channel.
The modest, authentically timeworn house is stuffed with much-loved collections and her genuine chambres d’hôtes – a threatened species – are family-furnished, floral-papered, draped with all sorts and conditions of crochet; the loo is across the landing. Breakfasts are good, too.
Quiet, restful stays can be spent strolling into lovely, laid-back Liévin, days maximising the proximity to the coast, war cemeteries and battlefields. Louvre-Lens Museum is a mere kilometre away, with art and sculpture borrowed from the main Paris collection.