A top-floor eyrie, an amazing bolthole in Vieux Lyon. A lift ferries you to the fourth floor of a Renaissance tower… then it’s up a sweeping stone, window-lit stair and into a bedroom with yellow-wash walls, terracotta floors and a view of the Basilica from the bed. There are 17 windows on your two floors, each with a view of the rooftops of Lyon; on a clear day you can see to Mont Blanc. Find smart fluffy towels, basics in the fridge, a Nespresso machine for classy breakfast coffee and, if you order in advance, dinner for late arrivals. It’s a big turret climb (not for the faint-hearted) up to the living area: a stylish orange sofa that converts to a bed, a breakfast bar with stools, a modern desk, a brilliant oven-dishwasher. The owners live close by and Patrick is a great chef; hence the corner kitchen fabulously equipped. The shower room is on the mezzanine, reached by an open-tread stair – smart, white, compact and best avoided after too much beaujolais! A daily market lines the riverbank (vintage books on Saturdays) and the city is a buzz with great bistros and ‘bouchons’, hidden nooks and corners and – free bikes!