At the end of the street are the Seine and the glory of Notre Dame. In a grand old building (with a new lift by the 17th-century stairs), the two unaffected rooms, one above the other, look down to a little garden. The mezzanined family room has its bathroom off the landing; a simple breakfast of shop-packed items is laid here. Upstairs is the smaller room: bed in the corner, timeworn shower room and your own entrance. Madame is polyglot, active and eager to help when she is available; she leaves breakfast ready if she has to go out. She appreciates the variety of contact guests bring. A gem in the heart of Paris.