You’re bang in the old part of town, within walking distance of churches, museums, gardens and the pretty river. The sitting room has bare stone walls, stone floors, a fireplace for chilly nights and a sofa for upright reading (not slouching) – huge windows overlooking the terrace and views let light stream in. There’s all you need for cooking in the cleverly-designed kitchen, squeezed into a small space but with mirrored cupboards and a proper chef’s cooker; two chrome bar stools and a black marble table top give things an energetic, ‘New York’ feel. Up a spiral stone staircase is a bedroom large and sunlit with pale grey French panelling on the walls, soft white linen and an antique dresser in the bathroom. There’s a cosy TV corner up here too with a couple of plump purple velvet chairs. Wander the town to discover the ruins of the ancient walls, some still with towers, the château of the Dukes of La Trémoille, the 12th-century church of Saint-Laone and the neo-gothic chapel of Joan of Arc. Good traditional French restaurants abound, you can hire bikes and explore further afield.