Come for an absolutely fabulous French bourgeois experience: a wide 16th century stone staircase, deeply worn, high ceilings, southern colours, loads of stairs, interesting objets at every turn. Add the owners’ passion for Napoleon III furniture, oil paintings and ornate mirrors and the mood, more formal than family, is unmistakably French. Bedrooms, some with rooftop views, are traditional and very comfortable; breakfast is served overlooking the old part of Gaillac. A treat to be in the heart of town, with utterly French people. Madame is a darling and it’s excellent value for money.