Come not for luxury but for deep country authenticity – and to make friends with a generous, charming, free-thinking family who gave up Paris for this lush corner of France. They have restored, renovated and eco-converted a run-down farm, insulated it with hemp, wattle and daub, then added wood-burning stoves, organic breakfasts… and cats, dogs, horses, hens, donkeys. Family rooms in outbuildings round the courtyard are wood-clad with sloping ceilings, rudimentary furnishings, mix and match bed linen, the odd rug. Dinner is in the kitchen diner or in the conservatories. A place for new horizons.