Cross the garden courtyard to the ancient, peaceful coaching inn where Stendhal once laid his head. Beyond the breakfast room, where 15th-century timbers, wraparound oak panels and stone alcoves dance in mixed-up glory for breakfast amid Turkish rugs, is the staircase up. Three bedrooms, wonderfully quaint and nicely tatty, have antique beds (one a four-poster), new mattresses, hanging rails, perhaps a roll top bath. Up steeper, narrower stairs, a pretty attic double has festoons of beams and the loo behind a curtain. Your charming host, Olivier, lives just across the courtyard. Sleep among angels beneath Bourges’ unsurpassed cathedral.