Come for the exceptional food. A breakfast buffet is laid out on the terrace; evening meals are a culinary adventure of seasonal dishes matched with a list of local wines.Friendly staff look after you well up in the wooded hills above Le Boulou. Tuck yourself away in the pretty gardens with your book – you can chase the sun (or the shade) all day. Loll about on a lounger, plunge in the pool, take a siesta in your elegant bedroom – some are bigger than others, one has a private terrace.This is a brilliant place for forays to Spain and the south coast; Collioure, beloved of Matisse, is 20 minutes away, Céret, Picasso’s favourite, is even closer. Seek out the Musée d’Art Moderne, and the huge Saturday market – it stretches over several streets and sells everything.