As you progress down the track you wonder, for a moment, where you are going. Then the gates appear, and the Moulin stands alone, silent and splendid in the curve of the river. Smiling Babette, who runs her own B&B, comes out to greet you and shows you around. What a restoration! The fine proportions of the rooms have been respected and the very best materials have been used. Two apartments combine: one on the ground floor with a large terrace overlooking the river (relax to the wind rustling in the bamboo) and the other up the wide stone stair. You can cook your own meals in the sociable kitchen or have them brought to you by a local chef (one of six à la carte extras). Downstairs, ceilings are high and fine linen curtains swoosh to the floor; upstairs, two bedrooms are on mezzanines with beams to watch and steep stairs. Spend the morning in medieval Pézenas up the hill, long loved for its architecture, boutiques and winding streets. Return to the dappled shade of the majestic plane that guards the bridge to the door; let the children swim and explore. Magical.