It’s so peaceful here it takes a while to believe it – but believe it you will. Where once there were donkeys and terraces of wheat, now vines reach as far as you can see. The village is at the end of the road, and this 19th-century vigneron’s house – named after the ‘fontaine’ that gushes out of the hill – is light, airy and spotless inside, with three spacious floors and a vast vaulted cellar that opens to the garden and is blissfully cool. This is a fine place for out of season stays: the pool is solar heated so you can swim from May to October, and there’s central heating and a wood-burner for winter. The big friendly kitchen is the hub of the house: a long family table, nice white china, wine on the house (one white, one red) and doors opening to a balcony that connects with the salon. In summer you’ll be dining in the garden, by candlelight flickering against stone cellar walls. Bedrooms are fresh and light, one with a sun terrace, another with a roll top tub. Stock up at the markets of Pézenas and Béziers, kayak in Roquebrun, hike in the Carroux, and dine at L’Ocre Rouge in Herepian – it’s a Sawday’s favourite.