This medieval house, overlooking the walled City of Avignon (splash out on a terrace room with a view) is the former palace of Cardinal Orsini. Rich in decorative tiles, steep narrow stairs and 14th-century timbers, it has been in the family for three generations. Today the owners live over the road but are hugely helpful and on the spot for breakfast, served in an atmospheric, vaulted chapter house at one big table; all is delicious. Xavier is an artist who runs workshops on site; splendid suites combine modern art with country antiques and chandeliers. The grassed grounds are beautiful – there’s even a pool.