The tiny reception gives no clue as to what lies beyond; a hamlet within a village. Step across a sunny dining room, through French windows – and blink. Scattered around three swimming pools is a cluster of cottage rooms. Newly built of pantile and stone recovered from old village houses, most have a private terrace or garden. Large, airy and prettily furnished with painted Provençal pieces and fabulous mattresses, each has a different charm – ‘Mimosa’ has a finely upholstered yellow bed, ‘Amarilys’ has big chunky terracotta tiles. Walls are white, ceilings neatly beamed, there might be a bed tucked under a stone arch or extra beds for children on the mezzanine. Bathrooms are modern and marbled and a fridge keeps drinks chilled. Madame supervises the excellent restaurant, Monsieur does the wine – 500 bottles in the cellar – and their sons take care of the buildings and garden. Eat on the terrace or in the dining room; the locals love the cooking, too. Nîmes, Avignon and beaches are less than an hour, swim in the Gorges du Gardon, walk among the pines. As for the village, it’s charming.