Towering over the village, by the castle, this handsome 17th-century townhouse mixes history and modernity with panache. Vaulted ceilings and flagged floors sit with modern art and black leather. Bedrooms are huge, spread between the two towers. Colours are soft, bedlinens crisp, fine antiques nudge funky lights, bold rugs are spread on ancient tiles. Two rooms are duplex with stunning staircases. All have views over the courtyard garden. Breakfast – organic and homemade – is here or in the vaulted dining hall; dinners, too. Nimes and Avignon are close or relax in the garden with its scents, secluded corners, and secret jacuzzi.