A pretty old Burgundian hunting lodge, ‘Copper Beeches’ stands in a walled garden full of ancient trees; and its village setting is a delight. There’s an unexpected air of Provence inside: beautifully judged colour schemes (Madame paints), fine furniture, numerous objets, a tomcat or two. Your hosts extend a warm, genuine yet ungushing welcome to the weary traveller, and can organise wine tours that are perfect for you. Up a steep stair are low rooms with dark character and fine linen. Breakfast has the savour of yesteryear: yogurt, fresh bread, homemade jam, delicious coffee.