Rows of vines sweep down an incline, surround the Château de Clos de Vougeot, and come to an abrupt halt at the back doorstep of this spotless place, whose 16 rooms inhabit three modest clusters of buildings; ask for a view of château and vines. For centuries, Clos de Vougeot was considered the finest of all burgundies; the Cistercian monks planted some of the vines in the 12th century and the cloister, cellar and vast presses are among the most interesting examples of architecture in Burgundy (it’s fabulous at harvest time). Alain speaks excellent English and is a great host, but you are mostly on your own here with a key to come and go as you please. The staircase could be awkward for the very young or very old, and there’s no sitting area; however, the terrace has marvellous views. Inside, everything has been kept simple and clean, the rough outlines of dark timbers contrasting with white walls, light coloured bedspreads, parquet floors and teak furniture. The buffet breakfasts and the cold supper platters are delicious – or splash out on a Michelin-starred table in the next village, the perfect end to a great day.