Leaving tiny hamlets behind, you’re on the track leading down to the river; then a very steep climb up, through a lovely garden lined with agapanthus flowers. The wooden chalet at the summit, modestly fringed by forest trees that conceal a tennis court, sits on the last remaining river plot in the Parc Régional d’Armorique. No wonder the window in the main bedroom is huge! Minimalist bedrooms are decorated with panache: deep purple blushes against neutral tones, piles of large linen pillows on French brocante beds, glimpses of baroque fabric. Big bathrooms downstairs exude a luxurious simplicity. The sociable ground floor also embraces kitchen, dining area and salon in alpine fashion, with splashes of funkiness in artwork and pouffes. The compact, perfectly equipped kitchen has grey-painted cupboards and trim zinc surfaces. The owner Jean-Yves provides a welcome pack as exceptional as the rest, and is on the end of the phone should you need him. The Crozon peninsula is worth exploring; leave the car behind and take the kayak out instead. Fabulous.