Perched above Saint Nectaire, the old farmhouse has stupendous views from its hillside garden of the romanesque jewel below and woods and mountains soaring beyond. Monique, chatty and knowledgeable, enthuses her guests with descriptions of the Auvergne in perfect English. She doesn’t pretend to offer luxury, just the cosy comfort of a real home. You stay in an attached one-bedroom cottage with a shower and kitchen area downstairs. Breakfast is in Monique and Daniel’s vaulted dining room, full of exposed beams and stone; eat copiously and enjoy the humour, zest and kindness of a couple who were born to hospitality. Astonishing value.