Linen curtains filter peaceful garden views from this fine old stone presbytery. It’s by the Romanesque church of tiny Cussac in rolling Dordogne countryside – 35 minutes from Bergerac airport. The feel is unfussy and friendly. Elegantly proportioned rooms have tall windows, wooden floors and mostly traditional French furniture; modernity in kitchen and bathrooms. The living/dining room’s warm yellow walls are hung with black and white prints; huge leather sofas frame the fireplace. So it’s cosy in winter; in summer you can step straight out to the garden, the pool, the delightful terrace; scented climbers festooning one pillar. Sit in the practical kitchen and chat to the cook. Cool, carpeted first floor double bedrooms (one with en-suite shower room, the rest sharing a family bathroom, and there’s a separate shower and loos) have colourful Indian prints, some mattresses specially made, attractively patterned quilts. Second floor twin rooms are atticy, with a small pool table. Play table tennis and barbecue outside, walk to UNESCO Cadouin, paddle the Dordogne; for more water sports head for Tremolat.