If you love horses you’ll be in your element: you can relax on the terrace and watch them in the next field. You can also ride close by. La Métairie was built as a farm at the beginning of the last century and converted into a ’boutique’ hotel some 40 years ago, a U-shaped building smothered in wisteria and Virginia creeper. There’s no road in sight and you really do feel away from it all – yet the Dordogne and its clifftop villages are minutes away. Borrow bikes if you’re feeling energetic! Bedrooms are charming, cheerful and full of sunshiney yellows and huge beds. They have room for a couple of comfy chairs, too. Bathrooms match – big and bright – and three ground-floor rooms have French doors and a semi-private patio. The pool is big enough for a proper swim and when you come out you can read under the trees that waits for you by the pool. In summer you can eat out here, or on the flowery terrace. The dining room has black and white floors, washed stone walls and well-spaced tables. Go ahead, indulge, order the four-course menu Périgourdin. You can swim it off later. Delightful staff, too.