The setting is very special. Off a medieval street in a charming hamlet, through the stone archway and the lightly-tree’d gardens, into the steep-roofed commanderie. The knights of the Order of Malta put up here 700 years ago en route to Santiago de Compostela and a low curved toll passage still forms part of the house. This is not so much a hotel as a houseful of guests overseen by diminutive Madame Roux, a correct but considerate hostess. An uncontrived collection of antiques warms the friendly bedrooms, each with its own personality – convent-white walls are set off by touches of dark blue, ceilings soar, floors of varying ages and diverse patterns are softened by Indian rugs. Downstairs, guests gather at round tables set with antique cane chairs, flowery curtains hang at tall windows and you get two choices per gastronomic course – just right for this unassuming but atmospheric place. There’s a delicious little pool in the shade of the cedars and the Lascaux Caves are a mile down the road. Great value for what you get, and that includes very good, classic French food.