The setting is special indeed, off a medieval street in a charming hamlet. Go through a stone archway, across generous parkland, beneath majestic trees into the steep-roofed commanderie. Here, the Knights of the Order of Malta put up 700 years ago en route to Santiago de Compostela and a low curved toll passage still forms part of the house. It is not so much a hotel as a houseful of guests overseen by diminutive Madame Roux, a considerate, welcoming hostess. An uncontrived collection of antiques warms the friendly bedrooms, each with its own personality on a blue and white theme punctuated by touches of dark blue; ceilings soar, floors of varying ages and diverse patterns are softened by Indian rugs. Downstairs, guests gather at round tables set with antique cane chairs, flowery curtains hang at tall windows, marble busts abound and you get two choices per gastronomic course – just right for this unassuming and atmospheric place. A delightful stone rill snakes through the grass to the pond and the Lascaux Caves are a mile down the road. Great value for what you get, and that includes very good, classic French food.