High above the valley of the Vézère is an atmospheric inn where a Templar castle once stood; views from the terrace, where you breakfast leisurely, perhaps on truffle omelettes, are peerless. The place has been in Anita’s family for generations, her archaeologist grandfather adding stones from his own digs (Les Eyzies, the capital of prehistory, is nearby). Gentle, helpful and full of good stories, she and Christopher love the place. Years ago they renovated the buildings with great care, keeping the traditional look, and using walnut wood from their own land to restore bed heads and doors. Pastel, pelmets and painted flowers on the walls clothe the dining room; modest, air conditioned bedrooms in country style have beams, stone walls and wooden floors; shower rooms are neat and compact. Some rooms overlook the courtyard, others the woods. Christopher is an enthusiastic truffle hunter; Anita makes beautiful cakes. The hamlet is charming – you can walk to it – and the forest hiking is a joy so bring your walking boots. Great value.