You’re in the Wye valley, on a spur that takes you into the middle of nowhere, with birdsong and a gurgling stream supplying the soundtrack. It’s a fairytale setting, a small house on a hillside in a forest that has conquered the valley. Light sparkles in ancient trees, footpaths meander through woods, the terrace for drinks before dinner has delightful views. As for the Whitebrook, it’s a restaurant with rooms, where Chris whisks up incredible food – this must be the healthiest Michelin star you’re likely to eat. His ethos is simple: take the best local produce, cook it without excessive embellishment, then draw out the cleanest expression of its flavour. It’s gobsmacking stuff, lots of it foraged, perhaps Wye Valley asparagus with hogweed and pine; Hereford snails with aromatic flowers; suckling pig with hop shoots and artichokes; honey mousse with caramel and lemon Verbena. Rooms are a treat. Expect comfy beds, crisp linen, warm colours, excellent bathrooms; those at the front have valley views. You can walk in the forest, kayak on the Wye or explore Tintern Abbey. Hard to beat.