Denise’s Bothy is a one-off: chock a block with interesting stuff and infused with her warmth and creativity. Solid, small and simple it hunkers happily on its hillside overlooking golden green fields to Anglesey (a 15-minute drive) with the mountains of Snowdonia standing sentry behind. You can climb the largest mountain in Wales – Snowdon – from Llanberis (two miles away) or lazy loafs can take the train! There’s heaps of other outdoorsy things to do: kayaking, paddle boarding, white water rafting; or potter round a National Trust spot – Plas Newydd or Bodnant Gardens are lovely. Head home to get cosy by the wood-burner, fix supper in the narrow kitchen then up to the low raftered mezzanine to sleep deeply in a chunky bed (made by Denise) covered with a nostalgic patchwork quilt. Quirky and characterful: find rope and branch handrails, lime plaster walls and rugged larch floors. Pots of colourful flowers border the lawn, animals mooch about, the scent of herbs wafts through the kitchen window. A rural retreat for a laid-back couple (if you’re looking for mod cons and manicured perfection you won’t find it here) between the mountains and the sea.