The Hand sits in glorious country – vast skies, rolling hills, country lanes that deliver you into the middle of nowhere. It’s a popular spot with walkers, mountain bikers and wildlife spotters, who spend their days having fun in the hills before rolling down to this 16th-century drovers’ inn for the pleasures of a country local. A coal fire burns on the range in reception, a wood fire crackles in the front bar, a wood-burner keeps things cosy in the restaurant. Expect stone walls, low beamed ceilings, old pine settles and candles on the mantelpiece. There’s a locals’ bar for darts and pool, then a quiet sitting room for maps and books, which doubles as a treatment room. Delicious food draws a crowd, so grab a table and dig into excellent country fare, perhaps Welsh Cheddar brûlée, roast rump of local lamb, sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce. Airy rooms, all recently refurbished, have a contemporary feel with Welsh woollen throws on good beds and views of village and hill. Those in the main house are a little bigger, a couple have claw-foot-baths, three are dog friendly. Special indeed.