The road twists and turns until you arrive at a small 19th-century slate house in a wild, magical setting. Step inside to oak floors, thick lime-plaster walls and beamed ceilings. This is not a place for luxury seekers, this is a modest, simple retreat without a TV or a dishwasher. Complete and utter tranquillity. There’s a dining room with a wooden table and chairs, a dresser with glasses and crockery. The basic kitchen is off here; find local goodies, a Rayburn to cook on and deep slate windowsills. The cosy living room has a bookcase, Moroccan rugs, armchairs, a sofa and a wood-burner to belt out the heat – and enough wood to last a couple of days. Upstairs is a tiled bathroom, with Ecover smellies, and two simple bedrooms (one twin, one double) both with sloped ceilings and incredible views. Beds are draped with Welsh woollen throws. The delightful owners, who live close by, are the custodians of Ty Mawr, a 16th-century traditional Welsh house; Wil is passionate and can tell you its history. You’re minutes from the A5 that takes you straight through Snowdonia but bring a torch, it’s dark here at night.