Hebridean ‘blackhouses’ were low stone dwellings that disappeared into the landscape, with a thatched roof and a hole for the smoke. Step into an inspired 21st-century renovation, a harmony of ancient and modern on the sheep-straddled Isle of Harris. Welcome to toasty floors, a light-flooded interior and a 180 degree panorama of sea, shore and sky. You open the cream cottage door to a double-height living area with kitchen, dining room and bell-shaped sitting room at one end, bedroom alongside and a delicious gallery bedroom above. It’s a wonderful interior, warmly stylish, a mix of organic curves and clean lines. Find white panelled walls, deep sills, red bedspread, slate floor and bookcases spilling books and games; there’s a bathroom with a square, deep Japanese bath and recycled mosaics, and a cute kitchen well equipped. Take the boat (three hours) to St Kilda and the edge of the world, or cakes at the Temple Café. Dine at Scarista House, meet the wildlife. Or stay in and watch the weather. Harris is unlike anywhere else in the world, and it’s a privilege to stay.