Sweep up the drive to the grand home of an illustrious family: Macleans have lived here since 1862, and there are 500 peaceful acres of farmland. Veronica cooks sublimely; a proper Scottish breakfast and dinner served at a long candelabrad table, with vegetables from the garden.
A winter fire crackles in the guest sitting room, old-fashioned bedrooms are inviting (biscuits, books, lovely views), the peace is deep. The coast is close and the walking is splendid.
Stride out on walks straight from the doorstep, the Moray Firth, with Spey Bay’s pod of dolphins, is less than 30 minutes away, or head to Elgin (ten minutes) for a whisky trail around the local distilleries and cathedral ruins. You can borrow bikes here and explore the quiet coastal roads.