A gang of seals greets you as you draw into Big Harbour – as, less raucously, does friendly and knowledgeable Bill, one half of Rona’s permanent population. Let him haul your luggage while you walk over the hill to Dry Harbour, another beautiful natural fjord with mistily romantic views across to Skye and the pinnacles of the Storr. The modern world recedes further as you settle in to Escape, a late Victorian stone cottage with fenced garden nestled into the curve of the bay. Some of your electricity comes from a small wind turbine (don’t worry, there’s a back-up generator) but, with underfloor heating and wood burners in both kitchen/diner and sitting room you’ll be cosy. There’s games and books aplenty and sea views all around – a shame not to enjoy it with some Isle of Rona whisky…Two other, smaller, cottages, Skyescape and Seascape, are set some way apart; larger families and groups can rent all three together. Swim in the bay, trawl rock pools for your supper, stalk red deer with Bill (the venison is delicious)… or just sit on the deck and savour the briny air. A great escape.