This immaculate fisherman’s cottage just above exquisite Crail’s harbour gives you a warm hug of a welcome. Views from the pretty garden stretch over rooftops to the Firth of Forth; bliss to eat out here on a summer’s day. Inside is perfect: cool colours and pretty objets run throughout, while plump armchairs and sofa front the gas-fired stove; roll out the Scrabble, choose a DVD. The ground floor is open-plan with a Shaker-style kitchen that holds all you need, and a dining table for four. Upstairs are two bedrooms, not huge but stylish, with thick mattresses, crisp linen, lovely quilts – and a smart bathroom between them. Small but beautifully formed, No 21 would suit close friends or a family, or a couple of romancers. Beach towels and flasks are at the ready… stroll down to the Lobster Store, a wooden hut on the harbour wall that sells just-caught lobster and crab – Crail once supplied London with 20,000 lobsters a year! There are several fish restaurants here, and the best fish and chips in Scotland at Anstruther. Head off for golf along the coast (St Andrews is close) and handsome Edinburgh – under an hour. A real gem.