A cantilevered staircase in walnut and mahogany, a soaring hand-painted cupola, and a classic Georgian townhouse five minutes from Princes Street. Rooms are large and immaculate, sprinkled with paintings and decorative things from travels to far-flung places, while bedrooms are comfortable, traditional and well-stocked with books and radio (and a useful Z-bed). Bag the south-facing double with its Art Deco bathroom and garden views. Naomi is relaxed and happy to chat to you about the local music and art scene, or to leave you in peace. An interesting and hospitable place to unwind, and breakfasts are delicious.